Friends and Faux

|| Shrimps Look Book ||

|| Prada Spring Summer 2014 || 

Why so serious? Self-mockery is a long running trait of fashion. Hence the popularity of Brian Lichtenberg and What about yves. Fashion likes to be witty. Shirmps – a new faux fur label based in London – is a perfect representation of that. The young label’s aesthetic is so comical that it is blatantly not the real deal, yet such fun interpretations are like a breathe of fresh air – a typical British tongue-in-cheek sense of humour.

On the high-end spectrum, we have Prada. Miuccia Prada is probably the only designer who reinvents her woman season after season – she also makes you want to reinvent your wardrobe, too. She delivered a powerful Spring Summer 2014 collection adorned with literally in-your-face mural art. So what about the coats? Anna Wintour, Marc Jacobs and Katie Grand had first dibs.

These reinterpretations of fur coats exude mockery, to a point that it is challenging the traditional interpretation of fur. Stripping down regality and lavishness of fur, in exchange for vibrant whacky teddy bear fur.

自嘲一向都是時尚圈的專業，何須太認真呢？物極必反，當時裝華麗到一個地步，就有新的對衡，而通常以玩味極濃的手法出現。Brian Lichtenberg及What about yves惡搞設計就是時尚對自我諷刺的認同。時尚是詼諧的、俏皮的。而倫敦新生代人造皮草品牌Shirmps就是很貼切的例子。這個新品牌整個調子就是很幽默，賣點不是假的很像真皮草，而是肆無忌憚就是假皮草的態度，如此有趣破格的演繹就是活生生的英式開玩笑幽默感。

高端時裝代表有Prada，少有的設計師每一季都再徹底改造品牌的繆斯女神，而Miuccia Prada是其中之一，她的設計還讓人想徹底換掉自己的衣服。Prada 2014春夏系列藝術氣色濃厚，隨處可見的壁畫元素是一大亮點。而Anna Wintour、Marc Jacobs和Katie Grand已經爭先演繹皮草大衣了。

俏皮的諷刺造就皮草大衣的重新解讀，駁斥人們對皮草的傳統看法。抹去皮草的雍容華貴，以亮麗輕狂的一面示人。

Coach Samie Heel

|| Coach Samie Heel ||

My oh my how Coach footwear has dramatically evolved! With the rise of practical footwear, pointed-toe pumps make the tolerable heel height much more slimming and inspiring with the beautiful arch of the foot. Gilded with a slightly clunky retro heel, this Coach Samie Heel is of stylish pointed-toe pump perfection. 

Coach的鞋履一向給我過分成熟而不夠現代的感覺，看我是多久沒有留意他們的高跟鞋。自從更踏實的鞋款開始流行起來，尖頭鞋就成為最熱鞋形，因為尖瘦鞋頭使腳看起來更修長，讓中跟鞋更耐看。這雙Coach Samie Heel集合現代流行元素及復古感覺在一身，百搭易穿。

The Low Down

|| Rick Owens down coat || Topshop embroidered top || H&M leggings || Chanel patent cap toe boots || Celine trapeze bag || Prada sunglasses || Monica Vinader, Tai, Astley Clarke bracelets || Chrome Hearts, Tiffany, Joy Everley rings ||
Photos: K

I do have an embargo on down coats, except for those in disguise. Down outerwear is the warmest thing ever, without the need to look like a wild life creature. But I just can’t get myself to like all that Bibendum – more commonly known as the Michellin Man – silhouette. Rick Owens coats are of the rare breed, such slimming effects (courtesy of the skinny leather sleeves) yet so warm at the same time. Most down outerwear just doesn’t come as edgy as this, Moncler Gamme Bleu/ Rouge as an exception, obviously. And no, the Moncler main line is just puffy pomposity blowing out of proportions. Really.

我真心不太喜歡羽絨服，除非是完全不像羽絨的羽絨服。根據早前的angora（安哥拉毛）事件就能推斷出時尚圈終於開始保育，真皮草已經不太時尚，而羽絨大衣就變成最溫暖的選擇，但我就是接受不了那種米芝蓮人輪胎身影。Rick Owens外衣都獨具特色，穿著羽絨大衣依然是瘦子，顯瘦皮革袖子應記一功。普遍的羽絨大衣除了Moncler Gamme Bleu/ Rouge以外也是沒什麼設計感，而Moncler主線就不值得一提了。

Couture Athletics 高端運動

 Christian Dior || Spring 2014 Couture || Style.com

Chanel || Spring 2014 Couture || Style.com

Sportswear (known as sports-luxe most of the time) has always been around every season, especially in New York. This athleticism somehow extended to couture season, to two of the largest French houses – Christian Dior and Chanel. Airy lightness and futurism swept both runways, Raf Simons had the most glamorous pool shoes bedazzling an architectural space, while Karl Lagerfeld had couture running shoes accompanying every look.

Looks like we have got fashion’s nod of approval to stay grounded in sneakers, with the rise of comfort over vanity. The make of these kicks are not so down to earth though. In tweed, python, pearls, embroideries and lace, which probably takes a million man-hours to hand make. We won’t be seeing much of the Chanel sneakers around, since Susie Bubble mentioned that they are only available if you buy the total look.

I am all for this sportiness, women in this world can live with more fitness, less bunions.

運動風幾乎是一個永恆不滅的時尚趨勢，因為每一季都至少會出現於紐約時裝周。這風竟然吹到一向以華美手工晚裝見稱的巴黎2014春夏高級訂製時裝秀，兩大法國時裝巨頭Christian Dior及Chanel（香奈兒）不約而同地休閒起來。脫離高訂一如以往的華麗枷鎖，來一個未來主義的運動小清新，但依然保留高訂奢華手工及高端範兒。Raf Simons以最華麗的寶石鑲嵌游泳鞋穿梭著充滿建築美感的秀場，而每一位香奈兒模特都以跑步鞋亮相。

看來我們已經得到時尚界的允許，以舒適為大前提穿著時髦運動鞋。可這些高訂運動鞋一點也不平民化，以粗花呢、蛇皮、珍珠、刺繡及蕾絲等手製，必定花上不少人力物力，才能稱得上高訂吧。但我們應該不會有很多機會能親睹香奈兒跑鞋的風采了，著名時尚博主Susie Bubble透露寶石跑鞋只可以跟全套裝束一起購買。

我個人認為運動風鞋履是女生的大喜訊，運動鞋的舒適總比高跟鞋帶來（血流成河）的傷痕來的好。

The ripped, the old and the fast fashion

Ripped Acne Jeans || Converse || Street of Hong Kong

Acne jeans are almost a rite of passage. Everyone should have a pair (or two), and not limited to the ripped ones. But my love for this Swedish brand goes way beyond their jeans. Clean lines, oversized silhouettes, work wear staples, pops of colours here and there, and always – always – with a twist. In this age of fast fashion, when you can grab a blouse anywhere, anytime. It is time to stop and think, make purchases that are special, that stands out from the ten million other blouses. 

I bought this pair of ripped Acne jeans when I was in Stockholm, where I spent all of my travel money on Acne, including the Acne store, outlet and archive. The Acne archive is another must visit, that’s where I picked up one of my favourite light jackets in mint green. It’s like a treasure chest, full of off-season and show pieces Acne gems (at a discount) for everyone.

Here I wore them with my trusty rusty old and battered Converses, a bit broken on the side and at the back. It is nice to hold on to things and realise that old things still hold a place in this new world. Just taking the statement of wearing to death very literally. That’s all.

Acne以牛仔起家，其用色及物料令褲形歷久常新，個人認為人人都應該有一兩條Acne牛仔褲看門，而且不只是破爛風格那種。不過我更喜歡品牌現代多元化式的簡單線條、大號剪裁、工人風格、用色也是亮點，而且總會有意想不到的獨特之處。在這速食時裝世代，隨時隨地都可以買到一件上衣，是不是應該停下來想一下，要購買真正特別、有品位的時裝呢？

這條破爛Acne牛仔褲是在斯德哥爾摩買的，去的時候剛好是復活節，歐洲國家大部份商鋪都休息，整個城市像死城一樣，而且四月北歐冷得要命。不過也無損我大手購買Acne的心情，結果把所有盤川都用盡在Acne店、outlet及archive。去斯德哥爾摩各位喜愛Acne的朋友一定要到Acne archive，店子就像一個寶箱，都是Acne off-season及show piece瑰寶，我在那也買到我很喜歡的粉綠色外套。

這雙破爛Converse應該是我擁有最殘舊的一雙鞋，兩邊和腳跟位置都破了但我還不掉，有時候留著舊物品，發現原來也還佔有一席位，挺有意思的。